Artègo Canada’s Artistic and Education Director Marlo Steenman talks to us about her curl expertise.
What are the different curl types and textures and how much does this determine the types of hair products the stylist decides to use?
There are so many curl types, and no two heads are the same, but it is important for a stylist to understand the distinct types of curls and hair texture with which they are working. This will allow the stylist to give the right recommendations in terms of the types of treatments, conditioners, and styling products the client requires.
What is the most important product feature needed for all types of curly hair?
I always say moisture, moisture moisture. It is important to use a deep treatment weekly and to always use a leave in cream or spray to protect your curls. Moisturizing products help the curl to stay healthy and retain a springy effect. I love the Artègo Raindance Hydra Boost Supreme Hydrating Mask for weekly deep treatments.
What are the problems that can result from choosing the wrong product when styling and caring for curly hair?
Frizziness happens when choosing the wrong products. The sweet spot is about finding the right balance of moisture and protein in the conditioners you are using and knowing if your curls will have the best hold with a cream, gel, or mousse product.
How does the stylist prep curly hair for styling after hair has been shampooed and conditioned? What pitfalls does the stylist need to avoid when prepping hair pre-drying?
I am a big believer in layering products one by one. This approach gets the maximum performance out of each product. Layering also gives you the ability to manage what type of product you may need more of, i.e. you may need something that gives you more control and less hold. This prevents the overuse of treatment and styling products and allows the curls to have a natural rather than crunchy feel.
How do you remove excess moisture from curly hair and what is the best way to dry it?
I like to use a thin towel to squeeze out the excess moisture and I always use a diffuser to dry the hair with low and even heat. This prevents curls from becoming frizzy.
What approach should a hairstylist take to achieve the best results when cutting and colouring curly hair?
I am very big on using a cutting cream when I cut curls as it allows some control while I am working. My go to cutting cream is Beauty Primer by Artègo Touch, which also helps to reduce curl porosity and frizz during the haircut.
Curly hair requires an incredible amount of care and consideration when it is being coloured. I like to go low and slow with my lighteners as curly hair can damage easily. The low and slow approach will get you your results without all the potential damage from a more aggressive lightening technique.
How do you decide whether to cut curly hair wet or dry?
Deciding on a wet or dry cut is really based on the individual client and how she wears her hair. The stylist should initially determine whether the client prefers to style her hair smooth or mainly leaves it curly and then to discuss the shape she wants to see, whether there are areas where the client wants more or less volume, what is the curl type you are working with and how will it react to the cutting techniques you are considering. In my Curls Gone Wild class we talk about the importance of knowing what each curl type does and what technique will work best for each client.
What are you looking for in a product when styling curly hair and why is shine so important?
Naturally, curly hair does not have a lot of shine, even when it is very healthy. To deliver shine and the look of healthy hair when styling curls I recommend using a shine spray to finish your look. Choose one that does not weigh the hair down and gives the curls a light reflecting 3 D effect such as Shine Bright by Artègo Touch.
Why is it important for your client to book in salon treatments to maintain their curls in between cut and colour appointments?
I recommend that my curly haired clients come in every 8 weeks for a clean up and shaping. Between cut and colour appointments, I encourage them to book in-salon treatments which are not only super beneficial to maintain essential moisture and condition for their curls, but are also a small bit of pampering and luxury which everyone is so in need of these days.
Artègo is available in Canada at The Oriac Group Oriac.ca
Hair: Artego Canada Artistic Design Team @artegocanada @marlosteenmanhair @tristynfeisthair @adelaidoeshair @hairbytonyricci
Photography and Creative Direction: Tony Ricci
Makeup: Renee Rampersad @makeupbyrenee
Products: Beauty Fusion Phyto Tech color, Raindance haircare products and Touch styling products all available @theoriacgroup